My family has cultivated the Château du Mas Déu terroir for six generations, and it's my intention to pass on the vineyards to the next generation of Oliver winemakers in the best possible condition. That's why we've always practiced sustainable viticulture and why I'm in the process of converting our vineyards to organic viticulture.

Plans are also underway to re-plant some vineyard parcels, with Malvoisie for the vins doux naturels and Mourvèdre for the AOC reds. Meanwhile, our venerable 60-year old Carignan, Grenache and Maccabeu continue to yeild fruit of exceptional concentration.

Château du Mas Déu - at a glance Terroir: Limestone & clay Altitude: 101 m Size: 25 hectares Grape varieties: Syrah (3 ha), Grenache Noir (2.6 ha), Old Carignan (4 ha), Old Maccabeu (3 ha), Old Grenache Gris & Blanc (4.5 ha), Muscat à Petits Grains (3.66 ha), Muscat à Gros Grains (2 ha)

As quality, not quantity, is the credo at Château du Mas Déu, yields are strictly limited to a low 27 hl/ha, in order to maximize the aromatic potential of each grape variety. For our finest cuvées, the best vineyard rows are identified at the end of July and then carefully managed until the fruit matures. A final selection takes place before harvesting. If the vines are carrying too much fruit, bunches are removed to improve the concentration of juices in the remaining grapes.

All our grapes are harvested by hand, for two reasons: first, our old vines would not tolerate a bruising mechanical harvest; and second, only a human hand can properly select the best grape bunches. Harvesting takes place between 7 a.m. and 11 a.m. to avoid the day-time heat, which might provoke oxydation of the grapes' juices and so reduce aromatic potential. A final selection of the finest fruit is made before vinification.

- Claude Oliver